Baby Girl 19

October 8, 2007





As Valentino took one of his last bows, a series of new designers celebrated their debut on the Paris catwalks, including Indian designers Manish Arora and Anamika.

Japan’s Limi Feu also showed in Paris for the first time, presenting sharply-tailored jackets as her father, established designer Yohji Yamamoto, watched on, saying he was very nervous.

Belgium’s Olivier Theyskens, 30, presented his second collection for fashion label Chloe on Sunday and let autumn leaves from the Tuileries gardens waft over his catwalk for a nature-inspired collection of silky dresses.

Theyskens, who came from fashion house Rochas after the label stopped its fashion business last year, paraded out models wearing light, pastel-colored dresses and woolen cardigans.

Taking over at an established label is a tricky task for designers who need to prove their own style while respecting the history of a house.

Sweden’s Paulo Melim Andersson faced a similar challenge as Theyskens, rolling out his second collection for Chloe, which featured dungaree-style dresses worn over transparent tops.

At fashion house Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has had several years to leave his fingerprint on the label. On Sunday, he won standing ovations for pleated Greek-style dresses, whose trains floated like sails behind them on the catwalk.

Vivid colors dominated the Paris runways. Golden stars and sequins sparkled on dresses at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, and Kenzo gowns came in all shades of the rainbow.

"It’s certainly a season where colors seem to be an overriding message on every runway," said Ken Downing, fashion director at upmarket U.S. store Neiman Marcus. "Even designers of whom you don’t particularly think of doing colors have made really bold statements, with hot turquoises and hot pinks."

 

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